Ciao to the Omo Valley

It has been a beautiful and fascinating journey through the Lower Omo. But it’s not for everyone. The hassles of dealing with the constant begging and harranging for money, shoes and even empty water bottles “Highland! Highland!” a constant chant from the street kids.

Want a photo? It’s going to cost you. Expect to pay Birr 3 – Birr 5 – often per shot. Think of it as a modelling fee. I have no problem paying to enter a village, but I am more than skeptical where the money ends up. 

A human zoo? It’s easy for the locals to get in a frenzy over the photos. I found it much better to ask the guides to explain that I wanted to see the village first and ask questions before bringing out my camera for a more pleasurable encounter, but it doesn’t always work out.

 

Even more of a pain are the “guides” to the markets. A couple earned their money, but many did not.

Whilst it is possible now to make it through to Jinka by public transport, if you really want to get out and about you will need to hire a 4 by 4 and driver. I am grateful to the friendly and knowledgeable Abreham (+251 – 911 680 327) who gave me an excellent price for the tour which enabled me to get into more isolated areas of the valley.

All accommodation options and restaurants are over-priced for what they offer – whether one stays in budget or more up-market lodgings.

Modernisation is rushing through the Omo the valley, and the near completion of the Gibe III dam will change the environment and the lives of the tribes irreversibly.

More information on the Mursi can be found at www.mursi.org

Bull Jumping Ceremony

I am encouraged to stay a third night based in Turmi to witness the legendary bull jumping ceremony. This one is Hamer, although this rite of passage is also staged for the Bena and Karo tribes.

I arrive around 2pm and the boy’s mother’s family and father’s family have gathered to join in the celebrations. 

 the young bull-jumper

The women have been drinking all day and certainly up for a party. They dance around with bells taped round their legs and ankles, and others blow small horns whilst recent successful jumpers, sit around and decorate each other with different natural paints. 

The men are goaded by the younger women who are regularly whipped with acacia branches. The welts have caused scars and several lacerations are bleeding. They taunt the men further and get switched further still. 

 whip me

 check out her welts

ouch!

It calms down a little in the heat until the cattle arrive on the scene.

The venue is now switched a further kilometre away to an open field. The jumper is placed on a goatskin, is given instructions and asked to select just 8 bulls from the 40 plus given. These are lined up in parallel, held by their tales by recent “jumpers”. The jumper strips out of his loin cloth and runs “tackle out” over the quadrupeds back. He stumbles on his third attempt, but completes a third run on his next run and voila – he is a man ready to take a wife (if he can afford it), and whip the women at the next Hamer bull run.

 

 I am charged Birr 300 to spectate (and take all the photos I want “complementary”) but I have to also pay a “guide” Birr 100 to “escort” me. Actually, it is worth every penny in comparison to visiting the Karo in Kotcha which is ridiculously overpriced.

Omolate to Lake Turkana

 The Dasanech tribe (also known as Galeb and Reshiat), are most notably found between Omolate and Lake Turkana. These are said to be some of the poorest tribes in the Lower Omo valley. There small circular dome lined houses are made from anything that they cam find – plates, corrugated iron and I am sure I recognise a few car parts in some of them. 

The journey through their land is somewhat rough and ready and an armed guard (Birr 100) is required to head down to Lake Turkana situated on the border of Kenya. The Galeb here are none too traditional following the arrival of Christian missionaries. The missionaries have now left and some of the locals have converted to Islam. They are lively and friendly. Accomodation here is very basic and limited to the Turkana hotel. 

 

 

 

 local kids gather around the car at Lake Turkana

 

Dimeka Market

Still in Hamer and Bena heartland, Dimeka held their market day on Saturdays. Held in the small square this market is crowded and not as interesting as the Key Affir tribal market, but worth a look nonetheless. Having the obligatory local guide is downright cheeky.

 Hamer woman - her necklace signifies she is the second wife

selection of gourds