Harar

I didn’t realise Harar could be so cold. grey, dark and occasionally wet. And it’s still only half way through Ramadan, and probably not the best time to visit this World Heritage site.

Nonetheless, the old city retains it’s magical charm, even if my favourite cafe – Ali Bal’s on Feres Magala square has turned into a construction as the family have relocated to Los Angeles. It’s a pleasure to explore the back alleyways and get lost totally.

Paraded as the forth most holy of Islamic cities, behind Mecca, Medina and Jerusalam it boasts some 99 holy sites within the walled city. Some claim it was founded by the direct disciple of Mohammed – Heik Hussein. Another leend claims that Mohammed observed the hill where the old city is perched and was told by an angel it was the Mountain of the Saints.

Harar is also the capital city of the time-worn narcotic chat and the entire population, men and women, young and old chew away like there is no tomorrow.

It’s also a mighty fine place for coffee, not least the Nure coffee factory in the heart of the Old City.

Fresh Touch remains the number one hot-spot for food. The Ras Hotel still resembles a penitentiary.