Another End of the Road

This is my last posting from Addis – although i will add my Good Restaurant and Coffee guides from the comfort of my parents’ home in the UK on my return – i fly out of Ethiopia tomorrow night.

It has been a most extraordinary and remarkable year. And one i hope never to repeat again.

My remit was to improve the school. And that has undoubtably been achieved. The curriculum has now been fully mapped, appraisal systems introduced, laid the foundations for a new Vision and Mission and i have even been able to purchase key resources across the curriculum. I have led more than 20 In-service training sessions and seen overseen a 20% growth in the Primary student population. Many Heads would need 2 – 3 years to achieve such accomplishments. All this has been against all odds, from school owner and chat-chewer Ato S., the evil Dr No and the incesant and continuous bullshit of Boss. 

I have loved and been loved by 438 gorgeous, respectful, affectionate and honest children, and despite initial hostility, earned the respect and support not  just of the teaching staff, but even the cleaning and maintenance staff. Head Site Manager Ato Ketima last week broke down in tears and told me i was the “School’s Father”. 

The school can now return to its original state of inertia.

Despite being offered a substantial wage increase, Mr Z (Head of Upper Primary) departs the school after 8 years to take over Boss’ school in Bahir Dar. 

Head of Early Years, Ms J’s contract expires on August 31^st. She has been told it will not be renewed unless she hands in her an investment license, something she is not willing to do. She has been the only beacon of sanity in such a mad world, an appreciation of what quality teaching and learning is about and a most trusted friend. Clearly reflected in the 2166 text messages that we have exchanged in the last 10 months.

Ginger Warrior flew back to the UK within hours of the term finishing, and although scheduled to return to complete his 2 year contract in August, he is already making plans for a much earlier exit. He has been another trusted stalwart of sanity in this madhouse.

This blog has been visited over 3,200 times by many regular and often daily visitors. I hope you now feel somewhat obliged to leave comments or indeed  below.

In The Clink

Whilst i have been gadding about, poor brother Derbo has spent a week in jail in Lalibela for not having an official trading license. Clearly not an attractive vacation.

On his release, his friends recommend he sells his store and returns to try his luck in Addis again. I persuade him otherwise and transfer another Birr 4500 to at least cover his license for the first year. Addis is no Nirvana and he hasn’t had any successes in the city in the past, and i see no reason for this to change.    

 totally criminal

Harar

I didn’t realise Harar could be so cold. grey, dark and occasionally wet. And it’s still only half way through Ramadan, and probably not the best time to visit this World Heritage site.

Nonetheless, the old city retains it’s magical charm, even if my favourite cafe – Ali Bal’s on Feres Magala square has turned into a construction as the family have relocated to Los Angeles. It’s a pleasure to explore the back alleyways and get lost totally.

Paraded as the forth most holy of Islamic cities, behind Mecca, Medina and Jerusalam it boasts some 99 holy sites within the walled city. Some claim it was founded by the direct disciple of Mohammed – Heik Hussein. Another leend claims that Mohammed observed the hill where the old city is perched and was told by an angel it was the Mountain of the Saints.

Harar is also the capital city of the time-worn narcotic chat and the entire population, men and women, young and old chew away like there is no tomorrow.

It’s also a mighty fine place for coffee, not least the Nure coffee factory in the heart of the Old City.

Fresh Touch remains the number one hot-spot for food. The Ras Hotel still resembles a penitentiary.

A New Hyena Man in Harar

The New Hyena Man? Mountain Man tames the hyenas in Harar

 On my last visit to Harar, i very much enjoyed checking out the city’s famous Hyena Men. And i can’t resist visiting again.

But this time it has turned into a pantomime. And i can’t resist taking a staring role. I am invited to feed these rather shabby, smelly and ugly predators from a stick from my hand and even my mouth. 

The hyenas clearly like Mountain Man and are happy to try and mount me.

It’s wrong, on several levels, but i simply can’t resist close encounters with a variety of beasties, whether it’s whale sharks, mountain gorillas, gentoo and chin strapped penguins, great white sharks or hyenas.

A Final Sojourn in Ethiopia

Mountain Man is doing one last trip in Ethiopia - a return trip to the exotic ancient city of Harar in the east of the country. He will report back for sure.

Ciao to the Omo Valley

It has been a beautiful and fascinating journey through the Lower Omo. But it’s not for everyone. The hassles of dealing with the constant begging and harranging for money, shoes and even empty water bottles “Highland! Highland!” a constant chant from the street kids.

Want a photo? It’s going to cost you. Expect to pay Birr 3 – Birr 5 – often per shot. Think of it as a modelling fee. I have no problem paying to enter a village, but I am more than skeptical where the money ends up. 

A human zoo? It’s easy for the locals to get in a frenzy over the photos. I found it much better to ask the guides to explain that I wanted to see the village first and ask questions before bringing out my camera for a more pleasurable encounter, but it doesn’t always work out.

 

Even more of a pain are the “guides” to the markets. A couple earned their money, but many did not.

Whilst it is possible now to make it through to Jinka by public transport, if you really want to get out and about you will need to hire a 4 by 4 and driver. I am grateful to the friendly and knowledgeable Abreham (+251 – 911 680 327) who gave me an excellent price for the tour which enabled me to get into more isolated areas of the valley.

All accommodation options and restaurants are over-priced for what they offer – whether one stays in budget or more up-market lodgings.

Modernisation is rushing through the Omo the valley, and the near completion of the Gibe III dam will change the environment and the lives of the tribes irreversibly.

More information on the Mursi can be found at www.mursi.org