Wednesday, January 30, 2013

The End of the Road

Last night saw the end of Ethiopia's run in the African Cup of Nations.

Admittedly hopes were not high after the thumping against Bekina Faso, but The Black Lions still had a mathematical chance of qualification if they can beat Nigeria. Nigeria were once a power-house of African football, but are on the decline.

Again, both teams make a tentative start to the game and there is nothing to write home about in the first 45 minutes of action. Things do liven up in the 2nd half. Whilst Nigeria enjoy the lion's share of the possession, the Black Lions look threatening on the break. 

Nonetheless, for the second time in three matches, Ethiopia's goal-keeper is sent off in the 78th minute, and Nigeria score from the resulting penalty. A second penalty follows 10 minutes later, and it's Goodnight Vienna.

Ethiopians drown their sorrows after the game, and i hear bottles smashing throughout the night. 

Let's hope it's not another 31 years before the Black Lions qualify for the African Cup of Nations again. 

Monday, January 28, 2013

From King To Superhero



Ginger Warrior takes much pleasure informing staff of the “resignation” of Dr No at his daily morning Staff Briefing. On the Primary Campus, we have only a Staff Briefing on Monday morning (Staff Meetings and Teacher INSET are Wednesday afternoons).

Word spreads quickly across campuses, and i find myself elevated from King (not always a popular one with a few of my staff members) to Super Hero!

Dr No was a much loathed figure in the school, where he has bullied and insulted all and sundry when it came to contracts. Even my most belligerent and hostile members of staff have suddenly started smiling at me with new-found respect. It’s kinda eerie to say the least.

Pro Mountain staff come up quietly and thank me for such a sterling job. They can’t quite get over the announcement. If i have done nothing else for the school, it’s a fantastic legacy to leave behind for successors to the throne.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Holy Shit



One of my school cleaners enters my office with Mr Z (ineffectual and inefficient Deputy Head) to translate. She needs to take two weeks of on medical leave. I ask why, and she informs me she has a trapped nerve in her lower right arm. She informs me the doctor gave her a prescription, but it’s too expensive, so she needs to head out of Addis to some holy waters for two weeks.

Holy Water is found all over Ethiopia, most dedicated to individual Saints. It is a common for most Ethiopians to seek cures, not least brother Derbo’s mother, who goes regularly as she seeks an alternative cure to her HIV, tuberculosis and diabetes.

I ask her how much the prescription is, thinking i’ll simply pick up the tab and she can forget leave. Unfortunately, it’s some US$45 and this could become a very tricky and expensive precedent. I ask her to provide a doctor’s certificate and come back to me; i need some thinking time. 

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Toothless Black Lions

After Ethiopia's quality result against Zambia in the African Cup of Nations, hopes are high amongst my colleagues as the Black Lions face Burkina Faso in their second group match. I'm not so sure, after Burkina Faso got a good draw against the once mighty Nigerians. 

Leading into the 9pm kick-off the crescendo of car horns, whoops and screams fill the city. Songs break out from the traditional to tribal football chanting.

Despite four changes from Tuesday night, Ethiopia begin the match the stronger, looking dangerous on the break and hitting the wood-work, and it's clear the audience believe it's only a matter of time before the flood-gates open.

However it's Bukina that open the scoring and complete silence descends. It's eerie. 

The game become more tense as each team dares not lose possession and it becomes an increasingly dour affair. Half time is a welcome break.

In the 55th minute and Burkina have their goal-keeper sent off and the audience erupt for the first time since the opening goal. Down to 10 men, surely the Lions can take advantage? Such belief doesn't last long, as Burkina get a second and Ethiopia simply capitulate. Final whistle can't come soon enough, and it ends a humiliating 4 - 0. 

To add salt to the wound, the electricity in Gerji goes out. But at least i enjoy the quietest of nights.

 

Friday, January 25, 2013

RIP Dr No




 It’s 3.20pm on Thursday – Golf Day and i am rushing to escape my office to join Ginger Warrior on the course. My phone rings. It’s Boss. Fuck – normally she leaves me to my own devises.

However, it transpires that it is our very first conference call, with Mr T and GW, and i can immediately guess where this is going. Boss informs us that Dr No is out! His letter of "resignation" has been accepted by Ato S.

She may be English, but Boss went native long ago. She spouts her bull-shit, sayng she was instrumental in his removal and persuaded Ato S to let him go. She has had 8 years to rebel against Dr No, and as usual, she has done nothing in alignment with the School of Inertia. It shouldn’t upset me, but it does!

Twenty minutes later i meet up with GW on the first hole. I would have thought we would have been elated at getting rid of the reptile, but neither of us are. Relieved for sure, but there is no whooping or jubilation. That said, it’s our most leisurely and informal round yet.

As Davenport keenly notes, you never know who will come in as a replacement. 

Nonetheless, two down and one to go. Boss is a liar, a fraud, vindictive and a bully.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Weliso



 Negash Lodge

With the school closed for the Prophet Mohammad’s birthday, Frank (Boss’ poor husband) is keen to get Ginger Warrior and myself out of Addis. And he knows a choice spot some 110kms out of the city in the nondescript town of Weliso.

It is the home of Negash Lodge, a former palace of Haile Selasie. Now converted into an upmarket lodge, it boasts extravagant rooms based on tribal themes, a good restaurant and pizzeria as well as baths, spas and a swimming pool.

spring water is pumped into the pool

one of the many interesting bungalows


 feeding time for the beautiful Colombus monkeys

Once out of the city, the sealed road passes through lush farmland and tribal agricultural communities. It is truly stunning. 




Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Helping Africa




Dr Gloves sends me a gift from Hong Kong – a post-grad student from HKUST who attends his sociology classes, who “wants to help Africa”. And apparently, my school fitted her remit. 

Her name is Tanya and she is prepared to pay her own way, work for free and even to bring out some school resources too. For me, it is a no-brainer, but Boss is anxious that all correct procedures are in place, which involves the school writing to the Ethiopian Consulate in Hong Kong (situated in an Industrial Estate up a back alleyway in Kowloon) requesting an acceptance of a 3 month business. Which they do, although Tanya is only out for 3 weeks. Boss seems a little less troubled as I suggest that she stay at Boss’s unregistered bed and breakfast for 200 Birr a day.

Cheekily i request for a school handbell, stickers and 100 boxes of coloured pencils to distribute around classes.

A scholarship student from the North East of China, Tanya compares my school to her own primary school, and she thinks my school is much better. She tells me of the inherent corruption in Chinese schools where Heads and Class Teachers get rich by accepting bribes from “concerned” parents, And the problem is escalating exponentially!

Tanya is as keen as mustard, and she gets stuck in.